Everything about Dhoti totally explained
The
pancha in
Telugu, called
dhoti in
Hindi,
Laacha in
Punjabi,
mundu in
Malayalam,
dhuti in
Bangla,
veshti in
Tamil, '
dhotar in
Marathi and
panche in
Kannada, dhoti in India is the traditional garment of men's wear in
India. It is a rectangular piece of unstitched cloth, usually around 5 yards long, wrapped about the waist and the legs, and knotted at the waist.
In northern India, the garment is worn with a
Kurta on top, the combination known simply as "
dhoti kurta", or a "
dhuti panjabi" in the East. In southern India, it's worn with an
angavastram (another unstitched cloth draped over the shoulders)in
Tamil Nadu or else with a
"chokka"(shirt)in
Andhra Pradesha or
"jubba"(a local version of kurta). The
lungi is a similar piece of cloth worn in similar manner, though only on informal occasions. The
lungi isn't as long and is basically a bigger version of a towel worn to fight the extremely hot weather in India. The
sarong is another similar item of clothing.
Custom and usage
The dhoti is considered formal wear all over the country. It is eminently acceptable wherever "formal wear" is bespoken or enjoined in India. Apart from all government and traditional family functions, the dhoti is also deemed acceptable at posh country clubs and at other establishments that enforce strict formal dress codes. The garment enjoys a similar, eminent status across the
Indian subcontinent, particularly in
Bangladesh,
Sri Lanka, and the
Maldives. In many of these countries, the garment has become something of a mascot of cultural assertion, being greatly favoured by politicians and cultural icons such as classical musicians, poets and literatteurs. Thus, the
dhoti for many has taken on a more cultural nuance while the 'suit-and-tie' or, in less formal occasions, the ubiquitous shirt and pants, are seen as standard formal and semi-formal wear.
In
southern India, the garment is worn at all cultural occasions and traditional ceremonies. The bride-groom in a south Indian wedding and the host/main male participant of other rituals and ceremonies have necessarily to be dressed in the traditional pancha while performing the ceremonies.
Unspoken rules of etiquette govern the way the pancha is worn. In south India, men will occasionally fold the garment in half to resemble a short skirt when working, cycling, etc., and this reveals the legs from the knee downwards. However, it's considered disrespectful to speak to men or to one's social inferiors with the pancha folded up in this manner. When faced with such a social situation, the fold of the package is loosened with an imperceptible yank of the hand and allowed to cover the legs completely.
Pancha are worn by western adherents of the Hare Krishna sect, which is known for promoting a distinctive dress code amongst its practitioners, with followers wearing
saffron or white coloured cloth, folded in the traditional style.
Mahatma Gandhi invariably wore a pancha on public occasions, but he was well aware that it was considered "indecent" in other countries and was shocked when a friend wore one in London. (See .)
The genteel
Bengali man is stereotyped in popular culture as wearing expensive perfumes, a light
panjabi and an elaborate
dhuti with rich pleats,the front corner of the cloth being stiffed like a
japanese fan and holding it in his hand; whilst feverishly discussing politics and literature. It is considered the most elegant costume and is worn at bengali weddings and cultural festivals.
Over the past century or more, western styles of clothing have been steadily gaining ground in the region, gradually rendering the pancha a garment for home-wear, not generally worn to work. It is less popular among the youth in major metropolises and is viewed as rustic, unfashionable and not 'hip' enough for the younger age-set. However, use of the pancha as a garment of daily use and homewear continues largely unabated.
Styles and varieties
The garment is known as the
vaeshtti in
Tamil Nadu and
Mundu in
Kerala. It is called
pancha in
Andhra Pradesh and
panche in
Karnataka and dhuti in
bengal. The word is related to the Sanskrit
pancha meaning
five; this may be a reference either to the fact that a 5-yard-long strip of cloth is used. It is also related to the
sanskrit word 'dhuvati' .In one elaborate south Indian style of draping the garment, five knots are used to wrap the garment, and this also is sometimes held to have originated the word.
It is usually white or cream in colour, although colourful hues are used for specific religious occasions or sometimes to create more vivid ensembles. Off- white dhuti is generally worn by the groom in bengali weddings. White or
turmeric-yellow is the prescribed hues to be worn by men at their weddings and
upanayanams. Silk panchas, called
Magatam or
Pattu Pancha in
Tamil Nadu and
Andhra Pradesh respectively, are often used on these special occasions.
Vermilion-red dhotis, called 'sowlay', is often used by priests at temples, especially in
Maharashtra. Kings and poets used rich colors and elaborate gold-thread embroideries. Cotton dhotis suit the climatic conditions for daily usage. Silk panchass are suited for special occasions and are expensive.
There are several different ways of draping the panchas. The two most popular ones in south india are the plain wrap and the
Pancha katcham or (five knots or five folds). The first style is mostly seen in south India as shown in picture. It is a simple wrap around the waist and resembles a long skirt. It will be folded in half up to knees while working. Second style is folding around the waist in the middle of the garment and tying the top ends in the front like a belt and tucking the falling left and right ends in the back.
Along with dhoti, the angavastram (an extra piece of cloth) will be draped depending on the usage. Farmers carry it on one shoulder and treat it as sweat towel. Bride grooms use it as entire upper garment. It will be folded decoratively around the waist while dancing. Priests wrap about the waist as the extra layer.
It is also worn in East Africa, mainly by the Somalis and Afars, it's called a
ma'awees.
Usage in Nepal
The word Dhoti is often used as an
ethnic slur against the
Madhesi community of Nepal and
Indians by the majority population of
Nepal. This may be because of the popularity of dhotis in the
terai region and the bordering Indian states.
Further Information
Get more info on 'Dhoti'.
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